Pokemon GO Cuentas, skins y cofres

Trainer level first, and by a wide margin. Levels on this shelf are tiers rather than a slope: an account at the old cap, an account at the cap that replaced it, and an account at the current top, which is in a class of its own. The top levels are a pure XP ladder that no honest player climbs in a season, so the level is a measure of years, and the price is for the years. Total XP is the same fact with more resolution — two accounts at the same level are separated by it — and the start date on the profile is the same story from the other end: an account from the game's launch summer wears it as a status line and is priced as a veteran even when its level is not the top.

Then the storage, counted. Legendary and mythical Pokémon first — they come from raids and research one at a time, so the count says how many raid passes and how many years went into the account. Shinies second, hundos third: a hundo is a Pokémon with perfect hidden stats, rare enough that the count of them is its own filter here. These three numbers are the fields the filters run on, and the screenshots are what backs them.

Inside the cheap tier, names decide. Two accounts with a similar count of legendaries are priced apart by which ones: a shiny Mewtwo, an Armored Mewtwo, a perfect Mega Mewtwo Y, a Zacian, a Solgaleo or Lunala, a Groudon and Kyogre pair. These are the Pokémon people search for by name, and a card that carries one leads with it. At the top of the shelf the names stop mattering — a trainer with years behind them has all of them several times over, and the price is the level and the XP.

Two things people expect to move the price and do not. Team is a preference: a Team Medallion from the shop changes it, once a year, so a Mystic account is worth no more to an Instinct player than an Instinct one. The login type is not value either, but it decides whether the account can be handed over whole — a Trainer Club login transfers with its username, password and email, while a Google, Facebook or Apple login only transfers if that account comes with it. Almost everything here is Trainer Club for exactly that reason.

Login first. A Pokémon GO account is whatever it signs in with, and that decides whether it can be yours at all. A Pokémon Trainer Club account is handed over whole — username, password and the email on it, which you then change to your own. An account that signs in only through Google, Facebook or Apple is that Google, Facebook or Apple account: it transfers only if the seller gives you that login too, and it stays tied to a stranger's identity until you link your own and unlink theirs. The card says which it is; the slice for Trainer Club logins is the safe place to start.

Then what you are buying it for. If it is a start — a handful of legendaries to raid with, one headline Pokémon — read the names in the title and find them on the screenshots, and treat a card that names a shiny Mewtwo without showing it as a card without one. If it is an end-game account, read the level and the XP before the names: at that end everyone has the names, and the level is what you pay for.

Third, the counts against the screenshots. The in-game search makes this cheap to verify: a screenshot of the storage filtered to perfect Pokémon shows the hundo count at the top, and the same works for shinies and legendaries. Ask for those three frames if they are not on the card. Storage size and bag size are worth a glance too — an account whose storage was expanded over years plays differently from one at the starting size.

Team last, because it is the one thing that is cheap to change: a Team Medallion from the shop, once a year. Pick by preference, not by price. Access is never optional — full access means the login and its email come with the account and the previous owner keeps no way back in; on a Trainer Club account that is the email, on a Google account it is the Google account itself.

Niantic's terms forbid selling, buying and sharing an account, and Niantic enforces with a three-strike policy: a warning that quietly degrades the game for a while, then a suspension, then termination. Strikes are earned by behaviour — spoofing a location, a modified client, third-party tools that log in with the password — and they stay on the account. That matters when buying, because an account that was levelled the fast way already carries its history: a young account at a high level, with a start date only months back, is the pattern to distrust at any price.

The second risk is the first login. Niantic watches for a trainer who was in one city an hour ago and is in another now — that is what spoofing looks like from the outside — and answers with a soft ban: the game runs, but nothing can be caught or spun for a while. A soft ban is not a strike, but it is the pattern that earns one. If the previous owner played on the day of the sale and you are somewhere else, do not play immediately: sign in, change what needs changing, and leave the catching for the next day.

The third is the previous owner. Niantic support restores an account to whoever proves the original email or the purchase history, and a Google or Facebook login that is still linked is a way back in that needs no support at all. On a Trainer Club account the email has to become yours and every other login provider has to be unlinked; the card says whether the email is included, and the confirmation window is the time to do it. Nothing removes the risk that Niantic acts on the transfer itself, and no warranty covers it.

Sign in exactly once, from where you are, and do not catch anything yet. Change the Trainer Club email to your own — that is the step that makes the account yours — then the password, in the same sitting. Then open the game's settings, link your own Google or Apple login as a second way in, and unlink every provider that is not yours. If the account came as a Google login instead, the same steps apply to that Google account: password, recovery email, then remove the previous owner's phone and recovery options.

Then compare the profile with the card: level and XP, team, start date, and the three counts through the in-game search — perfect Pokémon, shinies, legendaries. All of it while the confirmation window is open — that is the window in which the seller's money is still frozen. If it matches, confirm the order, and play the next day.

Listing is free, and you receive exactly the price you set: the platform's fee is added on top for the buyer, not taken out of your price. What sells a Pokémon GO account is stated plainly: the level and total XP, the team, whether it is a Trainer Club login with the email included, the start date, and the three counts — legendaries, shinies, hundos — with the storage screenshots that back them. Name the headline Pokémon in the title, because buyers search for them by name; a card that shows a shiny Mewtwo sells at a different price from one that mentions it.